Sunday, December 31, 2006
New Year's Eve and Gale Force Winds
Thursday, December 28, 2006
Saturday, 23 December -- Ronda
After you cross the bridge you are into the old historic part of town. We were wandering down the streets and ended up stumbling upon a Nazareth Market. I must say before this trip, I had been pretty bummed that we were not able to see any of the traditional Spanish Christmas practices. Today we were able to and it was wonderful. In this market most items were handmade and every one who had a booth was dressed in what people would have worn in Jesus' time. There was a man turning wood on an ancient foot powered lathe, and woman darning wool, a blacksmith, a wood carver, and cooks. The children took donkey rides through the square. There were all sorts of food booths similar to what would have been during this period of time. There was also a live Nativity in a little barn stall. It was amazing!
This is where we ate lunch at. I am not sure that chorizo and beer were available during the time of Jesus, but it was tasty!
This was the most amazing chocolate pastry that I have ever had. I have no idea what was in it, but Mike and I could have spent all of our money buying them out of it, if it would have been easy to get back to our apartment. Unfortunately, we only had this big slice. Of course, its all gone now, and we miss it.
The historic part of Ronda was incredibly beautiful. There were many old parts of the town that had been Incorporated into the newer buildings, such as doorways, walls, towers, and arches. Above if the Arch of Felipe V and was the old gateway access into Ronda. The old Moorish walls and gates were still standing, along with the Arab Baths, remains of mosques, a Moorish King's house and more. Some of these pictures are up on flickr.
This is the Old Bridge or Arab Bridge. The scenery was very beautiful in the gorge. This was probably our favorite day because of all we were able to see in just three hours. The market was incredible, along with the rest of the city and we highly recommend anyone going to the Costa del Sol or Andalusia visiting Ronda.
Friday, 22 December -- Gibraltar
This is Gibraltar. For those of you who don't know its history... The Rock of Gibraltar has been a much contested piece of land for many years. The Spanish, Moors, English, and others have occupied it at various times throughout history. The English have had it in their possession since the 1700's. Of course there were many battles over the possession of Gibraltar since then, and Franco, one of Spain's leaders, demanded it back the mid 1950's when Spain joined the UN. There was a vote and a high majority wanted to stay British. Now it is claimed that Tony Blair is trying to sell it for the money. Many tourists visit the Rock because of the duty free prices. Alcohol and cigarettes are incredibly cheap there. Also, there are the Barbary Apes, St Michael's Caves, and the World War II tunnels. The city is also very beautiful. Every time the local government tries to tear down one of the historic buildings, the Heritage Society jumps in and stops them. Therefore, many of the old buildings have been renovated and the city has retained its old charm. A lot of the old military barracks have been renovated and are now incredibly expensive apartments.
This is at one of the observation points. Across the Straits of Gibraltar is Africa.
Thursday, 21 December -- Malaga
We hiked up a massive hill to get to the castle, but the weather was so nice that we were wearing t-shirts all day. It was spectacular to be able to walk around in a tank top and sunglasses in December! It was quite the hike up the side of the cliff that the castle is atop, but the views of the harbour, bullring, and city were amazing.
This is a view of the city with the Malaga Cathedral in the middle of it all.
Wednesday, 20 December - Tangier
Many who know me, know that I am not a morning person. Neither is Mike really, so us waking up at 4:30am and being ready for the day by 5:20am is a big thing. Then we stopped at every Thomson owned resort in the next few cities, making a 2 hour journey into a 4 hour journey. We had hoped that we could sleep, but we were too excited. We left Spain from a little port city called Tarifa that is less than 25 miles to Tangier, Morocco in Africa. We took the fast ferry over and in less than a half hour we were in Africa. Since we went with a tour company, our passports were not stamped, just our tickets. We are also "fast tracked" through Moroccan customs (i.e. You walk right through it.) Well, Mike and I were at the end of the line and all of a sudden you walk out of customs and into Morocco. The traditional clothes of people from Tangier, or Berbers, were something similar to monk's robes. So, you step out into Morocco and are confronted with all these people in robes, and some in suits and regular dress. This combined with the fact that the National Languages are French and Arabic and its an Islamic nation and Mike and I are from the US. It was a tad overwhelming and we were really glad we were part of a tour group. Later we did learn that all Berbers are required to learn Arabic, French, and at least one other language by the time they graduate High School. Most know Arabic, French, Spanish, AND English. It was incredibly impressive. We were ushered on to a bus and driven through the "New Town." The French came to Tangier in the 1910's and started building this part of town and it is still growing today. This part of town wasn't really impressive because it was like any large city. It was interesting to learn of all the famous people throughout history that had lived there.
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This was our tour guide for the day. He was really crazy, and carried this stupid antennae with ribbons tied to the end of it so that we could easily follow him. Mike and I felt like we were in Elementary School again, and I am sure that people pointed and laughed at us as we went by. Now as I alluded to before, our Tangier tour guide was a bit more sketchy. (This might be the part where Mama might want to skip.) When we got back home we found a website talking about how Tangier is a difficult city to like, which it can be. You are bombarded from all sides for money of any kind. People are shoving items in your face begging you to buy them, and everyone wants a tip. There are of course underlying reasons why Tangier is a difficult city as well. In the past it has been a popular drug spot and the police have been corrupt. We knew this going to Tangier. Then we found a website that claimed there still are strong ties between the local police, authorities, and the mafia. I unfortunately have no pictures of the Tangier tour guide, but he was way too slick to be just a tour guide. He knew everyone and only took us to see his friends to buy wares from (not all that uncommon). But the odd thing was the amount of men with walking talkies circling our group and keeping people away. Anytime someone was being harassed to buy something, the harasser was immediately pulled off by one of these walkie talkie wielding Henchmen. The tour guide was definitely not rich enough to have body guards and Thomson would not hire them just for our group. It was all very suspicious until we read the site about the local mafia. We are now convinced that he was a part of it. So, those travelling to Morocco, do not book the trip through Thomson. The tour guides from the other companies looked less likely to be part of the Mafia.
After our tour of the New City, we went to the Medina (picture above.) Medina in Arabic - and Spanish - means "city" or in Tangier's case, the Old City. The houses are all built very close to each other with an outer wall surrounding them for protection. The streets are so narrow that no cars can get through, although they have built motorized vehicles small enough to maneuver down the lanes and corners to transport goods. The bottom floors are all shops and people live above them. There are thousands of people living and working inside these walls and interestingly enough the people living there come from immensely different economic backgrounds. It was amazing to walk through the streets and see men sewing robes, creating rugs, waving to people in windows above us, and just taking in all the sites of the city. This was the snake charmer we saw outside the Medina at the Casbah. I was so shocked to turn around and see a man with a cobra looking snake out and moving it around, this is the best picture I could get. He pulled out some less poisonous snake for people to take pictures with, but I declined.
Right before lunch we went to a traditional Moroccan Pharmacist. It was really interesting to hear about all the natural cures to common illnesses. We were able to try quite a few and they worked amazingly well. We didn't buy any of them because quite a few of them last a long time and we didn't know how well they would get through US customs being in an unmarked baggie. But we did get Mike some Moroccan spices for cooking while we are here. And we may be buying a book on natural remedies in the future.
Part of the tour included a five course Moroccan lunch. We were able to try soup, beef kebabs, couscous, honey cakes, and a sweet mint tea. It was all very delicious and I would love the recipes to them all. During lunch we were entertained by a traditional band and a belly dancer. Now, when we were told that there would be a belly dancer, all of us in the group expected a belly dancer, someone exotic and dressed like the girl from "I Dream of Jeannie". What we got was the girl below barely moving her hips from side to side and waving her hands about a bit. Needless to say, our table did not tip and we were all a bit let down. We all felt it was false advertising and wanted the real belly dancer to come out, but she never did. After lunch we were let out to shop for 30 minutes. Mike and I were a little bummed at first, not because we wanted to shop, but because we wanted to poke around the street. By then we had already bought a beautiful wooden camel. When we first came into the Medina, a man started following us and hastling us to buy bracelets. No part of me telling him, no I don't wear lots of bracelets would persuade him to stop getting us to buy the bracelets. When he finally caught on that we we're not going to buy the bracelets, he switched to camels. But we we're interested in the price. He kept going down, but we still weren't interested. Finally he just shoved the camel into my hands and turned to Mike and said, "8 euro." We were frantically trying to shove the camel back to him when we had our first encounter with one of the walkie talkie men. At this point we hadn't noticed them and I was sure that he thought we were trying to steal it and we would end up in a Moroccan prison. Thankfully he was on our side and just pushed the guy away from us. The seller reduced his price drastically and we bought the camel. I think we met the same seller 3 more times and each time he tried to get us to buy bracelets and another camel. For the rest of the day though, I keep my hands folded in front of me.
But, on to the shopping experience after lunch and how we now own a (small) Persian carpet. The guide had a "helper" to keep track of the 25 or so of us on the tour. He kindly guided us into a Moroccan Co-op, as he called it, and then up to where the carpets are made. He sat us down on this bench and told us to wait. Soon men came out with various Berber carpets to show us how wonderful they were and each one kept getting better. Then he brought out the 250,000 knot per foot silk carpet. Granted, it was smaller than the others, but they were super duper as he had claimed. He told us for 180 euro we could have it. So, we explained that we did not have that much money with us. So, he said he would give us 2 for 200 euro and they take credit cards. We explained that we had left them at home (and even if we hadn't I would not have used it in Africa!) So he reduced the price a little more, then I explained that we just got married and have no money. Wrong move, then he was convinced that we needed this carpet since we just got married. We told him all we had with us was 20 euro and he finally let up. We went downstairs and found a beautiful leather wallet for me (with the guy still following us around.) He tried to get us to buy more that just the wallet to no avail, so he took the wallet I was buying to bag it and I tried to give him the money. Guy, "How much for you to take the wallet and the carpet? 50 euro?" No, we don't have that much. Then Mike leaned over and whispered to me, "what about 30?" The man heard Mike and that is how we now have a carpet and wallet from Morocco. That was all 20 minutes into our shopping time. By the time we left the store, in a daze that we had just bought a carpet, we were ready to be done. We still cannot believe that we own an incredibly beautiful Persian rug, and have agreed that no one will ever step on it. We may not have paid that much for it, but its way too pretty! We have no idea what we will do with it yet, although we are thinking of making a glassed top table to put it in.
A couple from our group being hastled into buying a wallet.
A view from the bus ride home. Across the strait there is Africa and in the foreground is Spain.
Wednesday, December 27, 2006
Tuesday, 19th December -- Fuengirola and Benalmadena
Stacey, if you're reading this, we found your Christmas present for next year here... and no, its not fake dog poo. :)
This is the marina in Benalmadena. It is pretty large, and of course had massive boats in it. The apartments in the background were all very gated. Its a pretty ritzy part of town, and of course according to the resort reps the best clubbing in town. It even boasts to have a restaurant owned by Antonio Banderas and all sorts of Hollywood stars have been spotted there. But since we went during the tourist off season there was, unfortunately, no chance of seeing Antonio.
Monday, December 25, 2006
Monday,18 December - Torremolinos
We stayed in a VERY touristy town called Torremolinos, but it was great for exploring some of the region. We were really glad that we decided to go during the non-tourist season. Apparently during the summer its a just a little slice of Britain with all the UK tourists. That and LOTS of people on the nude beaches. Thankfully it was slightly chilly, so no nude beach goers.
We had a room on the 10th floor and the hotel was right next to the beach. Thankfully we could see the beach, and the mountains surrounding the Costa del Sol all from our balcony.
Above: Our hotel
Below: Views from our balcony
Since we felt the need to attend the "Welcome Meeting" our first day, we had to wait around until noon at the hotel before we could finally get on with our day. I have no idea what other resort welcome meetings are like, but it was a fairly big waste of an hour. All the resort reps did was freak us out that there would be no spaces left in the Tangier, Morocco trip unless we booked right away. So, like idiots we signed right up only to find out on our walk into town we could have booked the same trip for half the cost. At least we booked the our other side trek through the cheaper (and accredited) company. And the trip to Tangier was not fully booked, and in case any of you are wondering, the other tour company did exactly the same thing as we did, but their guide was not part of the local mafia. But that's a story for another day.
The rest of the day we spent poking around Torremolinos and walking along the beach. I, of course, found rocks and shells to bring home, but only a handful. Here are some pictures of Torremolinos and our day.
Mike drinking Sangria. The resort was all inclusive, so we drank quite a bit of it over our seven day stay.
We're back from Spain
Wednesday, December 13, 2006
Our Christmas Newsletter
As you can guess from our previous posts, it has been a very busy year for us. Trisha completed her Student Teaching and (finally) graduated in May. She can now officially teach Spanish and Earth Science! We then got married in June, the weekend after the wedding of Trish’s cousin, Brittany, in Illinois. We honeymooned in Tennesee for a week. We spent a long weekend in Niagara Falls attending a wonderful wedding right before James and Stacey got married in August. Then it was time to pack everything up and head to Glasgow, Scotland! We have had a really busy year, and it has finally started to wind down.
Stacey, Lisa, Becky, Emily, Trish, Mike, Eric, James, and Chris
The biggest highlight of our year was, of course, our wedding. We had a wonderful time at the Rehearsal Dinner and the Wedding. A big thanks to our parents for the wonderful parties! Also, thank you to everyone else for not only coming to celebrate the day(s) with us, but also for taking all the lovely pictures, video, all the memorable moments, love and support. We really appreciate all the help making our day so special.
We Honeymooned in Tennessee near Smokey Mountains National Park. Huge thanks to Uncle Jim and Aunt Marianne for letting us use their cabin in the hills. The cows thankfully never attacked, and the National Park was beautiful. It was in the ninties the week we were there, but we still managed to take a few hikes in the mountains, and even went into Gatlinburg in all the heat and tourists. We even managed to see the Dixie Stampede, which was pretty entertaining.
James and Stacey dancing
Trish's brother, James, and Stacey were married two months after our wedding. It was another wonderful ceremony. Trish has wanted a little sister since James came along 23 years ago and even more so when Christopher turned out to be a boy 19 years ago, so finally getting one was great. Mike has also enjoyed his new siblings. He went from none to three in a matter of months, so he is really liking having two little brothers and a little sister.
We spent the part of the summer in which we were not at weddings or in Tennessee packing all our stuff. It took us the entire summer and it’s a good thing that we rented the BIG storage unit. It somehow all fit in there, but it was a squeeze. And we still have lots of boxes at both our parents house's. It will be a project moving it all into where ever we live when we come home, but it should be fun.
Mike is currently working on his Masters/PhD in History through Central Michigan University and for one year Central sends students in his program to Scotland, paid. So, on Central’s money, we are living in Scotland for the year while Mike attends classes and writes a thesis at the University of Strathclyde. He has been busy not only reading and working on class work, but also researching for his thesis. He has decided to write his thesis on correspondence between Jewish communities during the early Third Reich. While you may be wondering then why we are in Scotland if Mike is studying German History, we have no answers. Although the two main archives he researches in, at the moment, are in the United Kingdom. Later on in the year we may also go to the Netherlands and Germany for Mike to research in as well. Thankfully the catalogue for the archive in Jerusalem is online and he can just order documents he needs.
For Mike it has thus far been an interesting experience to study in a different country. While they may speak English, it still sounds like a foreign language most days, and getting used to classroom discussions took a lot of patience and work on his part!
Trisha tried being a kept wife, but found that it was too irritating, and went to the nearest employment agency. Since October she has been working for the National Health Service in the Occupational Health Department at a couple different hospitals in the West End of Glasgow.
So far we have been very fortunate with our travels. Not only have we been able to travel, but the weather has been spectacular (minus gale force winds in Edinburgh) which is rare for the United Kingdom. We have been to Southern England, the Isle of Skye in Scotland, various cities throughout Scotland, and will be in Spain shortly for the week before Christmas. We are also hoping to go to Italy for a week or two in April. In the beginning of April we also will hear if we will be living in Germany for the summer. Mike has applied for a grant for a German Language study which would last for two months. Hopefully by the time we come home our passports will be filled with lots of stamps! And maybe if we’re really lucky, we’ll still have money left when we come home too!
We are looking forward to all of our March visitors (Mom Rose, Heidi, Mama Fues, and Dad Fues) and are hoping for some later in the Spring as well. See everyone in the summer otherwise!